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Kai Nesselrath Debuts at Carven, Emphasizing Architecture and Women's Empowerment
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In Short: Nesselrath's first runway show for Carven is set to debut on Thursday, showcasing his intention to channel Madame Carven’s independent spirit in softly sculpted clothes and utilitarian fabrics.
Kai Nesselrath, the newly appointed design director of Carven, previewed his first collection for the brand in an exclusive interview with WWD. Nesselrath highlighted his admiration for the independent spirit of Carven's founder, Marie-Louise Carven-Grog, who launched the house in 1945 to cater to women of similar stature to her.
Nesselrath emphasized the architectural influence in his designs, noting that fashion allows for quicker results compared to building a house. He explained, 'In fashion, if you want a jacket, you explain it, and then in about like a few days you can see a toile.
The designer shared that his research for the new role involved exploring Carven's extensive archives and digital repositories. He was particularly struck by Carven-Grog's pioneering role as one of the few women couturiers in Paris.
Nesselrath's collection moves away from sharp shoulders towards softer, rounder shapes, incorporating details like triangular trenchcoat vents and overall lines inspired by archived sketches. He described the construction of a jacket as his way of playing with architecture.
Born and raised in Rome to German parents, Nesselrath grew up surrounded by art and architecture. He studied at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Roma and Polimoda in Florence, and later added courses at Central Saint Martins.
Nesselrath's first runway show for Carven is set to debut on Thursday, showcasing his intention to channel Madame Carven’s independent spirit in softly sculpted clothes and utilitarian fabrics.
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- Related Articles Shoe Trends Ziwe Takes Fashion Month's Thong Sandal Trend to the Courrèges Front Row in Orange Satin People Ziwe, Soo Joo Park and Ellis Howard Talk Interior Design at Courrèges “It’s that spirit of Madame Carven that spoke to me the most — that energy of hers,” he told WWD in an exclusive preview.
- “If you start doing architecture and you build a house, you’ll have to wait probably five years to see the result,” he said.
- “Since coming and working in Carven, I’ve developed — I wouldn’t say a passion, but an intention for green,” he added from his office overlooking the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées where horse chestnut trees were turning russet with the first days of fall.
- In particular, “the construction of a jacket, where you place the shoulder pad, how you move the fabric” is his way of playing with architecture.
- Born and raised in Rome to German parents, Nesselrath grew up with art historians for parents and, he joked, “an overdose” of art that included promises of ice cream for one more stop on the family tours of churches.
Sources
- WWDlink