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Indian Crafts Misappropriated by Luxury Brands, Say Advocates
Developing
In Short: Luxury fashion brands like Ralph Lauren and Fendi have been criticized for using Indian crafts without proper credit or compensation.
India’s crafts and weaves are deeply rooted in generations and specific regions, yet luxury fashion brands like Ralph Lauren and Fendi have been accused of misappropriating these traditions without acknowledgment or credit, according to reports from The Indian Express.
During the spring/summer 2027 show at New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren featured a pink evening gown with aari embroidery, while Fendi’s autumn collection included a mirror-work Baguette bag, both of which are reminiscent of traditional Indian crafts found in local markets.
The Indian Express notes that these designs are not just artistic expressions but also geographical identities, raising questions about why it is easier for brands to appropriate these crafts than for the communities to secure recognition and compensation.
While Geographical Indications (GIs) can protect the name, origin, and reputation of a product, they do not cover every motif, stitch, or visual element associated with a craft, leaving much of the traditional knowledge and design unprotected.
What's still developing
- After the cultural misappropriation of Kolhapuri chappals by Prada, luxury fashion brands Ralph Lauren and Fendi have once again watered down the Indian origin and denied inspiration or credit for their new products.
- It is a knock-off of the mirrored purses that you would find in crafts fairs here.
- This raises a larger question as to why is it so much easier for a traditional Indian craft to be commercially appropriated than it is for the community behind it to demand recognition, ownership or participation in the value it creates?
- There may be a particular artistic expression, a design, a geographical identity or a protected name.
Sources
- The Indian Expresslink